Category Archives: Ritchie CountyWV-1970s

Back to the land with no electric

Working in the Pennsboro WV Garment Factory-1974

Similar Factory Sewing Floor
Similar Factory Sewing Floor

The so-called air was thick with red colored fuzz and coughing was heard from just about every lung in the suffocatingly closed in sewing factory.  Great. Today would be red fabric all day which automatically put all the women in a foul mood. First shift had already been at it for quite awhile and stirred things up nicely. Just what I needed. I had just gotten over having bronchitis from living in the cold damp cow shed I called home and this was not going to help.  I stashed my lunch under my machine and quick went to get punched in on the stupid time clock. I was early but it wouldn’t matter, they wouldn’t pay me for that, they’d only dock me for being late- never reward you for being early; it’s just that there was a line and I as at the end of it. There was a one way street here and it did not go my way.

The buzzer sounded and like a bunch of cattle we all headed in single file lines to our machines and took up our work. The country music station played in the background, interrupted by an occasional announcement from management or call for a supervisor over the loudspeaker, but mostly we heard sewing machines and cutting machines humming –probably about 150 of them at once. .Zip…Zip… Thunk… Zip… Zip…The movements were automatic-no thought required. Mine was a Five-Thread Overlock machine with a razor cutting edge. The fabric I sliced off with every line of stitching helped create a lot of the red dust floating in the air. The same dust that causes Brown Lung disease, especially when using the most toxic red dyes,  like today.  The female mountain mama equivalent of Black Lung but not really talked about or even acknowledged by most people- even those who know of it. None of the other colors made us cough like that- just the red. We were making ladies shirts and I was just making the hems on the bottom of the sleeves- all day long. Dozens and dozens of them all day long. Zip…Zip…Zip…Thunk..Zip…I got really fast, really quick because it was really boring so what else was there to do? The other ladies gossiped and took it easy, but I do not have any friends here, so I just get into the work. Zip…Zip…Otherwise, the day would drag by so slow I couldn’t stand it.

Another BUZZER!-really loud, breaks my reverie, and the momentum. Break time! Everybody jumps up and practically runs for the break room with the coffee pots and vending machines. I feel like such an automaton already that I have to break away and walk the other direction and go outside. This is seriously frowned upon. Why am I being different? What is wrong with me? Why can’t I act like the others? They will not let me near the coffee pot anyway, so what would be the point? I am an outsider here and there is no room made for me in the break area and not enough time anyway for me to get to a machine or a coffee pot through the unfriendly lines. I bring my own hot drinks-sometimes herb tea with honey, sometimes coffee and a snack, and I sit outside and enjoy the five minutes of solitude and the weather, whatever it is. You can’t tell what to expect when you open the door. There are no windows in there, at all. This is my idea of hell.

The BUZZER! sounds again and back we all go, single file, moving slightly slower than on the way out. This is way worse than high school ever was and the pay absolutely sucks. But it IS pay, and for where we are, in the middle of nowhere West Virginia , we are all lucky to have a job at all. We work piecework with a guarantee of minimum wage, which at this crappy Neanderthal place means minimum wage only. If they were intelligent I would be able to make more and they would also be able to earn more off my productivity, but for some reason they do not want to do that. Zip…Zip…Zip…Thump…Zip…Zip …  .As soon  as I get good at a skill and start making more than the minimum, they quick,  switch me to a new one and have me learn that, to slow me down. Zip…Zip…Zip..Thunk…Zip… I have only been here two months and have learned most of the machines and could probably supervise the entire place, plus fix the equipment, but I am still just making the minimum wage of $2.10 an hour. Go figure. Zip…Zip…Zip… The problem is I have a brain and I am using it and it seems to make them nervous. Most folks here do not bother to bring their brain to work as it would be wasted and they learned that long ago. Like I said, I am new here .Zip…Zip…Zip…Thunk…Zip

BUZZZER ! Again. Lunch. Back outside for me. Don’t know what I’ll do when it gets really cold out here – the heater in my Volkswagon is not worth much. I do not want to think about working here too much into the future. I am only here because I am desperate, but surely not forever. Not like the ladies inside who have been here twenty some years. God, how depressing. I have to do 144 dozen sleeves today-a gross. That about sums it up.

BUZZZZERRR! Again. That thing is really grating on my nerves and giving me a splitting headache. Zip…Zip… Zip…Whine, Ping…Oh, good. I get to take the machine apart and do some repairs and maintenance to it. Yeah! A break in the monotony! Sometimes I take it apart and put it together just for the heck of it but now it actually needs it. We have repairmen for this but they are kept pretty busy with the other women who use them regularly as their ‘spice’ for the day. Looks like I broke a knife so I will have to go get a part out of the repair shop up front which could take a little while. I will probably catch some flack from the floor- walker for that. She feels it is her job to give me (and everyone else) a hard time whenever possible. I think she gets about a quarter extra an hour for that job and now everyone hates her.

I got the part, swapped it out and…  Right back to work. Zip… Zip… Zip…”ANNOUNCEMENT!  THE FOLLOWING LUCKY WOMEN HAVE WON OUR ANNUAL THANKSGIVING TURKEY GIVEAWAY! Please report to the office when your shift is done to claim your prize.” Well wouldn’t you know, lucky me, the vegetarian, won a turkey. Guess I’ll have to give it to a friend. How bazzaar. Zip…Zip…Zip…Thunk…Zip…Zip…

Afternoon break BUZZZZZERRRRRR! goes off. Headache now pounding. Decide to go out and get some aspirin out of the car. Superviser stops me and accuses me of stealing fabric, smoking pot, etc, didn’t stick around for the rest. Got the aspirin out of the glove compartment and came back inside for some water from the fountain. All the folks who won turkeys were standing around chattering about how sweet it was of management to do this for them. I got to looking at them all and realized that we were all the latest hires. None of the old timers had won a turkey at all. This was strange and I said so. It was obviously rigged. What was going on?

“Oh, give it a break. Just because you don’t like turkey you have to go and ruin our fun”, said the ring leader of the group of local girls who all ate meat, married and had kids before they even got out of high school.

BBBBBBBUZZZZZZZERRR!! All thought stops and we head meekly back to our machines and pick up our work right where we left off. With…out… thought…. Zip…Zip…Zip…One hundred forty four dozen shirtsleeves… finished.

BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZER! This long day, in a string of long boring days without sunlight is finally over. I pack up my stuff and head up to the front office with the other lucky winners where we stand in line to await our frozen dead rewards. After awhile the manager comes out, gives the nod for the turkeys to be handed out and then he comes down the line and personally hands each one of us a note which says “Do to unforeseen circumstances we are having to reduce the workforce here at — —–. Unfortunately, since you are the most recently hired you must be the first to be laid off. Thank you for your services. This will be your last paycheck. If we need you in the future we will call you.” Awesome.

At first we stand in stunned silence, then a general murmur is heard. These women are very upset by this news, especially at this time of year. I, however, am grateful to have no reason to come back here next week, or ever again. I feel as though I have been let out of jail and am overjoyed at being unemployed without having had to quit. I have food put by in jars from my garden this summer, goats giving milk, chickens producing eggs, tons of potatoes under piles of straw. I might be broke, but I am not going to starve, so to hell with this job.  I am free. I jump in my VW and head home and do not look back. I made a quilt a few years later using scraps from that job which serves to remind me of that time, definitely not one of my better job memories.

They actually had the nerve to call me back a few weeks later to rehire me. I enjoyed telling them it was the last place I would ever return to. The final blow was when I realized if they had kept us for even three days longer, they would have had to pay us unemployment when they laid us off. Calling us back was restarting that clock and they could and would keep doing it. This was just one of the many garment factories enslaving poor folks in the U.S. before they did us all a favor and shipped these factories and jobs to even poorer areas overseas. Good riddance.

Wendy lee , writing at  https://www.edgewisewoods.com

photo from Wikipedia common files

 

Tessie-1889-1979

Tessie

Tessie owned our land long before we bought it. She had lived in her yellowish farmhouse across the creek and a little ways downstream, for her entire eighty six years, the last fifty alone. All her brothers and sisters were gone, having left as soon as they could. Tessie was the youngest of eleven and they were all dead now.

She had never married because her father had run off the only man who had ever proposed to her. She and her beau were supposed to elope and her father found out about their plans before they had a chance. to slip away. He never even let her know about all the letters that he burnt without opening.

Tessie’s mother had died birthing her and she was never forgiven for it. Her father had decided to keep her home to tend to him, cooking and cleaning.  He had always worn a long red beard and every time she came over to visit she would start with,

“Your man should cut off that beard. I don’t like a man with a beard. Can’t trust ‘em. Makes ‘em look mean.”

Tessie was under five tall, a little stooped with age, and had the

Tessie with Carina 1977
Tessie with Carina 1977

longest white hair. It had never been cut and she kept it up in a twisted bun at the nape of her neck with a lot of hair pins. and a head scarf.

She wore men’s long sleeved plaid shirts, buttoned all the way up, and baggy work pants, no matter what the weather was. In winter, more like October till May, she added long johns underneath. She also wore brogans, leather lace up work boots, and carried a cane made of a young tree wounded from a twining honeysuckle vine in its youth. There were dates and initials carved into it denoting various events in her later life.

Every first of the month she walked the six miles of gravel road into town to collect her Social Security check, buy what she couldn’t grow herself, and have lunch with people she knew in the old folks home. We always offered her a ride, but she preferred to walk in as long as she was able. She would have a poke in each hand on the way back though and was sometimes willing to accept a lift.

Across the Crick

A single-log footbridge spanned the creek, from Tessie’s mailbox on the road, and joined a narrow foot path through the grass, over to the house and barn. The log had been adzed flat on the top side and a wider board had been added and screwed down at some point. A thin hand railing made of a rusty steel well pipe ran along the downstream side, for balance if you slipped. Two log steps brought you down to ground level and the path up to the house, which sat about a hundred feet back , up on the second flood bank.

The creek flooded regularly but the water had never gotten into the two story wooden house. Water would surround the corrugated metal shack at the oil well, which sat right in the low bend of the crick, and sometimes, in the worst floods, water got right up to the barn door.

There was a crick crossing near the oil well you could drive a truck through, but it wasn’t  hardly ever used, and had almost disappeared. Tessie had never driven a car so she didn’t need to get a car across, and the oil men didn’t need to unless there was major work to be done at the well.

Tessie carried everything she needed across the little footbridge in her two grocery pokes. The mail carrier brought her the local newspaper every week and she would be waiting for him when he arrived. She didn’t get visitors and her only relatives lived way down near Weston and never came around.

Wisdom Passed Down

The first week we moved into our little cement, milking parlor shack, Tessie came by to visit. She wouldn’t come inside but we shared a cup of coffee outside sitting on a couple of logs. The other neighbors had warned us off from her, but she was friendly, and gave us advice about gardening and stories about various flood events over the years. She wanted to make sure we knew to respect the creek and the power it had.

Living in a bottom you do have to make peace with your creek if you don’t want to lose all the work you put into it. She showed us where the different flood banks were and how often we could expect the water to rise to each one, and the creek proved her right, over and over again. So we were careful not to build the goat barn, the chicken house, or the outhouse where the water would reach and we put the garden where it would dry out quickest in the spring. The bottom land had a lot of red clay and once it got wet it took awhile to dry out. We parked the tractor, the VW bug, and the stockpiled sawmill lumber well back from the low spots. Tessie came by about once a week and I always looked forward to her visits.

One August day she came by when the sweet corn was just coming in. She didn’t have any ready yet so I was picking her a few ears to take home. She said,

“Well, you’d better have your shotgun ready tonight. Those coons ‘ll be out here eating your corn. It’s a full moon. They know when it’s ripe and I always sit out in the garden with my gun or I wouldn’t get any corn at all.”

Sure enough, the coons got in the garden that night, but we heard them and went out and scared them off. We didn’t want to shoot them. We were vegetarians and not into killing anything. They got a few ears but we managed to beat them to most of it. We picked, husked and scraped the kernels off the cobs, packed it into pint canning jars, and had enough sweet corn for the winter. Barney and Daniel, our donkey and pony, ate the husks and the chickens pecked the cobs clean.

Tessie came back the next week and told us she had shot three raccoons in one night. She hung their bodies on stakes in her garden to deter their friends. The neighbor’s kids had told us she wielded a mean shotgun and would shoot at them if they ventured over there. They had no business being over there so I didn’t see a problem. She was a good shot and was obviously just scaring them away.

As time went by, Tessie told us more stories about her life. She invited us over once to see where the Magic Lilies come up. She showed us a section of mown grass. She had just mowed using one of those hand pushed reel mowers.

“See that spot along there? In the grass? Tomorrow there will be magic flowers pop up. Come by and see.”

So the next day we walked over, and sure enough, there was a whole line of big pink lilies on stalks about a foot and a half tall that had not been there yesterday. We had never seen them before and were amazed that she knew exactly when they would arrive.

“Well, I have been keeping watch on them for a lot of years now. Do you want some to take home and plant?”

Well, yes, we did. So she said she would give us some cut ones now for the table and bring us by a few bulbs after they had gone dormant again in the fall. I planted them alongside our outhouse to pretty it up some, along with the cowslips and Forget-me-nots and Tiger Lilies she gave me later. I have managed to plant bits of these at every house I have lived in over the years and still have some today, forty years later. I love having plants with a history and stories behind them. Seeing them come up each year brings back memories of people and places and times the same way photographs do.

Tessie always planted Irish Cobbler potatoes, from sets she had saved the year before. She didn’t go for the new fangled ones they sold in the feed store. She showed us how to cut them in pieces for planting, when to hoe them up, how to dig under them with our fingers to get the new potatoes, and how to cure the full grown ones for storing in the winter. We didn’t have a root cellar like she did though, so we had to pile ours up in hay mounds covered with dirt to keep them from freezing in the winter. We got that idea from the Mother Earth News and it worked fine.

She saved seed from all her peas, beans, squash and onions too. One year she gave me some Multiplier Onion sets. They were cool. They grew little miniature sets at the top of the stalks and you would save them and plant them to grow more plants for the onion at the bottom. They were a purple colored set on a green stalk and looked pretty in the garden. I have run out of those onions and would like to get some more one day.

The Farmhouse and the Well

Tessie’s house was very old, built by her father in the 1870’s I think. It was built of sawmill lumber using Yankee Framing, which means there are no studs in the walls. The inch plus thick boards are laid upright on the inside and then the siding is nailed to the outside in the horizontal direction. All the windows and doors are framed with inch boards too. There is no space for insulation. They used wallpaper to thwart the drafts coming in the cracks.

The floor joists under the house sat on rocks and were made of logs that were flattened on the top side with an adze, but still had their bark on the rounded sides. The back of the house faced into the hill and was L shaped with a porch the whole way. The well where Tessie got all her water was about fifteen feet from the porch with a stone path leading to it. There was a roof over the well and a pitcher pump had been added, but the well itself was open, and you could shine a light down to see the water. The hole was hand dug and about 30 feet deep, about three feet wide, and lined with bricks. Tessie hauled all her water from the well to the kitchen using two blue speckled enameled buckets at a time. She always boiled the water before she drank it.

Tessie had been trying to get somebody to clean her well out for awhile because it had not been scrubbed down in quite a few years. She was unable to pay much and couldn’t find anyone to do the work. It didn’t help that all the neighbors thought she was a crabby old witch. We finally caved in and offered to do it for her. This was a going to be a big job requiring an electric water pump, which we had to borrow, garden hoses, a ladder to go down the well on, buckets of bleach water and scrub brushes. First, we shined a light down the well to inspect the situation. We squinted into the hole.

“Oh, my God! There is something floating in the water. I think it’s Mr. Grey!”

Our cat had gone missing and there had been no sign of her for a month. Her name was Mr. Grey. Tessie hurried out back of the nearby shed and puked-over and over. She had been drinking water with a dead cat floating in it for a month! Good thing she boiled the water, but still, really gross.

We lowered a bucket down the well and scooped the decomposing, smelly, soggy remains of our cat into it and buried her up in the woods. Then we stuck the hose way down in the water and started pumping the well out, which took all night with the pump running. In the morning we lowered the ladder into the hole, took up our buckets and scrub brushes and stepped down in. There was still water coming in at the bottom so we started down low and worked our way up, takings turns.

It was creepy down there in the dark and cold. Eck would scrub awhile, then come up for air and light and I’d go down. It took us a few hours but we got it cleaned up, then ran the pump some more to rinse the sides, pumped it all back out, and let it start refilling. It took a few days to come back up to its normal level.

The next thing to do was to build a cover so nothing else would be able to fall in. It was kind of ironic that it was our cat that had fallen in. We felt bad for Tessie unknowingly drinking the bad water, responsible for the cat, and so relieved Tessie didn’t have any lasting effects from it. We built a frame to fit the top and stapled hardware cloth to it. While we were at it we built a wooden bucket rest under the pitcher pump to make filling the buckets a little easier.

In Tessie’s kitchen there was the most beautiful cast iron gas cook stove I have ever seen. I seriously coveted that stove. It had shiny nickel plaiting on the handles and trim, a warming shelf, and stood on stout, curved legs. I asked her how she kept it so black and shiny and she told me,

“You’ve got to rub tallow into it one’zt every week. Can’t be any salt in it and it’s got to be beef tallow, can’t be pork. Can’t use butter or it will smoke. I get some ground beef from the Overfields down the road and cook it up for supper and save the fat offen it, get the oven going on a slow cook and rub it in everywhere, ‘cept where it’s nickel. Use toothpowder on that to get it shiny clean. “

She had replaced her old natural gas refrigerator with an electric one some years back and no longer used her old gas lights, having found the electric ones to be cleaner and brighter.  We didn’t have electric in our shack and had to put our gas refrigerator outside under the eaves because of the fumes it put off, so I got that. Our lighting was from kerosene lamps because it was hard to find working gas fixtures anymore. Tessie wouldn’t part with hers though.

We all had free gas piped in to our houses from all the oil and gas wells, which saved on electric bills, if you had one. It was OK until it froze off in the winter from all the drip gas accumulated in the lines. Then you needed a backup heat source like wood. There should have been a calcium dryer installed at the well heads but that would have cost a lot of money that nobody had. We didn’t even have a pressure regulator on our line.

In Tessie’s parlor room there was a pump organ and an old wind up Victorola record player. Sometimes when I visited we would play a record and it sounded pretty good. The organ needed some work on the leaky bellows to work right, and she said she wasn’t very good at playing it anymore, so I didn’t get to hear that. It was a beautiful piece of furniture though, dark oak wood with mirrored lamp shelves, inlaid mother of pearl decorations and scrollwork.

There was a store bought oriental type rug on the floor, where all the other rooms had floral patterned linoleum rugs tacked down. All the floors squeaked in places but she kept them scrubbed and polished with beeswax. The windows had pull down plastic lace shades and she kept the rooms dark, pretty much only using the kitchen and one bedroom upstairs.

Her bed frame was strung with rope and had to be tightened every once and awhile due to humidity stretching the ropes. I helped her with that a couple of times. She had an old horsehair mattress and on top of that a feather bed tick, then the sheets, then another lighter feather tick for a blanket. You could barely see her down in there when she laid in bed.

Once she fell and broke her arm and was feeling poorly there for awhile and I would go over and make her some tea and brush her hair and put it back up in the bun for her. Her hair went all the way down past her waist and was snowy white.

In the parlor was an old photograph of Tessie in her twenties wearing a long white dress and standing with her two Jersey cows. She was beautiful. I asked her about it and she acted like it was somebody else in the picture, some other life.

“There used to be a man came by every Friday to pick up my butter, sour cream and buttermilk. We couldn’t keep it cold enough to sell much of the fresh milk. It was the only time in my life I ever earned any money, but I never did get to spend any of it. Father made me give it all to him. I didn’t mind really, I loved my cows, but it would have been nice to have some of it for myself.”

Family

When I asked her about her brothers and sisters she got kind of sad. She was always going on about Una and what a bright kid she was. I asked,

“Who was Una? What happened to her? Where was she now? “

“Oh, they took her away from here, down to Weston State Hospital. There wasn’t anything at all wrong with her, but nobody would listen to me. It wasn’t her fault. She didn’t ever do anything bad. She wasn’t crazy. She was a sweet, bright baby girl. The problem was, her mama was my sister and her papa was my brother, and nobody but me wanted her around. When father found out the truth about who her Daddy was, he called in the authorities and they decided she needed to be taken away, for her own good. The morning after they took her away, I found my brother hanging dead from that apple tree, right next the garden. My sister ran off right after and I never saw her again.

Father wouldn’t talk about it and forbid me to ask. One of my cousins came by a few years later, though, and told me they had let Una out, to live with a couple who couldn’t have kids of their own, and she was doing fine. She didn’t know what ever happened to my sister. She was way older than me and she is sure to be dead by now.”

Critters and Haystacks

So that is where I came by the name of our first sheep, Una. She was a sweet little lamb we brought home from Mountain (used to be called Mole Hill) in the VW bug. She fit on my lap and enjoyed the ride. Later, when we got the milk goats she would jump up on the milking stand to be milked too. She had the softest udder. Her first lamb we called Newton, since we had him neutered, and the second we called Nebo. But that was later.

Tessie used to tell us about all the floods there had been over the years on our creek. They were all named for the year in which they occurred. Flood of 36, flood of 50, etc. The one in 1950 was the worst and it floated her haystacks out of her bottom , way down the road to the Overfield’s farm and left them sitting there, high and dry. Nothing wrong with them at all,Tessie said,

“I knew how to build a proper haystack is why. I built them up from the  base by winding the layers of long hay around the center pole, slowly walking around and around as I went, tamping down each layer. By the time it was at the top of the pole it was 12 feet high and densely packed. I never lost any to mold or rot. When that flood came up they floated pretty as you please, just like a boat, and they landed the same way.

Overfield’s tried to claim them for their own but I held my ground and I went down there with the mule I used to have and hauled them on home. Had to get the boys up the road to help me rig up a sled to pull them onto to, but we got every one of them stacks. I needed that hay for the Jersey’s and the mule and I wasn’t about to let them steal all that work away from me. They called the sheriff, saying I was trespassing but he made them cooperate. What’s right is right. They lost a bunch of their hay too is why they were being mean about it. Well, they just had to go get their own hay back. I doubt theirs was nowhere as good as mine though. I can show you how to make a good stack of your own hay when you’re ready.”

So, when we got our own hay cut and raked she did show us and we managed to make a halfway decent job of it. I don’t think ours would have stayed intact floating down the creek, but it kept our critters fed that winter. We didn’t have a barn to keep hay in so this was a big help. We made our hay using a horse drawn mower and a ground driven, side delivery rake, both of which we pulled behind our tractor.

Then we drove over the windrows with a flat bed wagon and the hay loader, a contraption that looked like a manure spreader standing up on its hind legs. It raked the hay up onto a slanted bed with hooks and chains pulling it up and over the top and dropped it onto the wagon bed. My job was to stand on the bed and level the load out with a pitchfork as it landed. It worked pretty well except that it also picked up any snakes hanging out in the hay and dropped them on my head. Copperheads are not meant to fall from the sky onto your head. I learned to jump out of the way fast. That first year we killed sixteen copperheads in our hay bottom. It was the first thing we learned how to kill, usually with a hoe or an axe. Tessie told us,

“Whenever you get a copperhead, leave him dead where you kilt him, and come back at sunset. You’ll find the mate to it curled up beside him and you can get her too.”

She was right about that. Worked every time. We wouldn’t have killed them if they would have left us alone, but they were getting totally out of hand. Coming in the house. One morning, after a windy night, I went outside to check if the gas had blown out on the refrigerator. I had not even had any coffee yet. I stuck my face down low on the ground to see the burner up underneath there, and there was a copperhead staring right at me. That was unnerving. I went and got a bent coat hanger, dragged him out, and killed him. At sunset, sure enough, there was another one. Eck got that one. Didn’t seem to work the same way with black snakes though.

The blacksnakes were pretty darn abundant when we first moved in, too. They aren’t poisonous and I generally like snakes. They eat mice and don’t usually bother people much. However, the old pile of hay we slept in the first few nights we lived there was their home first. We pitched  all the hay outside and made a  giant compost pile so we could put our bed and stuff inside the shack. The black snakes did not appreciate us tossing their home outside and proceeded to harass us every chance they got. They swung from the rafters, striking at us. They slithered into tight places and scared us half to death.

Once, we opened the silverware drawer on the stove to get a spoon and found it filled with a six-footer. We kept throwing them outside, they‘d come right on back in. They were on our bookshelves and you’d reach for a book and grab a snake. One night they were under the bed, and we ended up sleeping out in the car. That was the final straw. That was when we decided it was them or us and we were going to each have to kill them.

I got the neighbor in to kill mine, because I thought he would be better at it. That was a bad decision. He started in chasing and swinging and getting the poor snake all riled up, blood was flying, blood got on the books. It smelled like a skunk from the snake fear. Eck killed the second one and he was much quicker about it. Better all the way around. Still we were vegetarians and did not enjoy the process at all.

The snakes got us back, by laying all their eggs in our new compost pile before we killed them. They started hatching a few weeks later and we had to kill the babies too. I tried feeding them to the chickens, since they were kind of like worms, but they would have nothing to do with them. We had to chop them up and it was really gross. Later that summer it was the copperheads. After that, the snake population was so decimated that it was quiet for a few years.

Crude Oil Painting

Tessie came by one day wanting help to paint her house. She had been doing all the lower half herself but was having trouble getting up and down the ladder. How can you say no to that? She was almost ninety years old and still painting her own house! So we went over and she showed us what she wanted.

First thing was a trip to town and the hardware store for more paint. Then we had to dip crude oil out of the tank by the oil well to thin it. That was different. That explained why her house was yellowish, instead of full blown yellow. I don’t know why they show crude as black on TV because it’s not that color here. It had a nice clear, golden color and mixed fine with the oil based paint. It seemed to do a good job.

I wonder about how flammable her house might be. Still, that house has stood there for over a hundred years so far and is not showing much sign of rot. The county road gets crude oil put down on it too. Keeps the dust down and makes the hard packed dirt and gravel seem almost paved.

The drip  we collect from the low point on the gas lines, which happens to be us, is useful for starting brush piles . It even works for running tractors, if you don’t mind fiddling with the carburetor and shortening the lifespan of the motor. Drip gas tends to burn too hot and fast. You can tell when somebody is using it in their tractor just by the fast sound of it. You wouldn’t want to run a good tractor on it.

Going to Town

When Tessie hit 90 she finally started slowing down, and we made a habit of taking her to town on the first of the month. We’d go to the bank to cash her check, stop at Berdines Variety Store for new kerosene lamp globes and wicks, Stout Hardware for beeswax, window glass and tools, and the old wooden floored A and P grocery store for peanut butter and coffee and such. Then we’d stop for lunch at the senior center and she’d get to visit with people she used to know. It was an all day affair and fairly exhausting but I enjoyed it.

Let it All Go

That fall, we decided to head north to New Jersey for a couple of months, to make some quick money. We farmed our animals out to various people and took the dogs with us. It was hard being away. I kept having dreams about Tessie. She was crying and begging to be let go.

I got worried and we came back home only to find her missing from her house. It was all locked up and there was no sign of her. Nobody seemed to know where she was. Finally we found her in the hospital 45 miles away. It was a Catholic Hospital with nuns and everything. Tessie was not Catholic, she didn’t even go to church. I located her up on the third floor, in a room with tubes and machines all hooked up to her.

The nurse said she had been brought in by her cousins, after collapsing while they were visiting. Something was wrong about this. Where had these so called cousins come from? What were they up to? Then I remembered she had told me one of her quite removed cousins had been writing to her and trying to get her to give her antiques to him, the organ, the Victorola and such. She had written him back and said no.

Apparently he had shown up on her doorstep once or twice trying to convince her. He told the nurse he had found her, locked in her house, dying. She would not let him in, told him to leave her alone. She wanted to die in peace, at home, alone. Then he could have whatever he wanted. He broke the door down and carted her off to the hospital about two weeks before I got there. Right about the time I started to have my dreams.

I walked over to the bed and sat down, picking up her hand. The nurse said,

“She has been totally unresponsive. She can’t hear or speak, poor thing. It is a good thing her cousin found her and brought her to us.”

Looking around at all the tubes and machines I knew she did not want, I held her hand, smoothed her hair, and started talking to her.

“Tessie, it’s OK. You can let go. They can’t hold you here.”

She opened her eyes, tears streaming down her face.

“I am so sorry I was not there for you. I know you wanted to die at home, without all this. You can decide when to go. It’s up to you. Don’t let them make you go through this. Just let it go.”

I released her hand and went out into the nurse’s station and asked to speak with the charge nurse.

“Why are you keeping her alive like this? She wants to die. She is ready. You are prolonging her pain.”

The Nurse got really huffy and said,

“It is God’s will, not ours and not yours that counts. If HE wants her to die she will.”

“Not as long as you have all those tubes and machines breathing for her, feeding her. That makes it your will, the hospitals will, not any Gods” I argued.

I went back to the room and Tessie’s side.

“You have had a good life Tessie. If you want to go, you can. I will be here with you. I am not leaving. Try to relax and let it all go. Thank you for everything you have taught me. I will miss you but you can let it all go”

Tessie looked me in the eyes, took one last deep breath and was gone. The nurses did not get there in time to prevent her. I turned and walked out, down the long corridor, the stairways, outside into the fresh air. I got in the car and cried. At least she would suffer no more.

-Wendy lee, writing at edgewisewoods.com

Old Kate-Ritchie County, WV 1976

Old Kate-Ritchie County, WV 1976

The toothless old horse trader told us down at the stock sale, “She’s a good working mule, not a day over 14 years.”

Well, we knew better than to believe that, but she looked fine to us anyway. We hemmed and hawed awhile, asked about throwing in the harness, maybe a single tree, her halter. We managed to get him down to $300 for the whole mess, and got her delivered to our place for free besides. It wasn’t our first time dealing with the cranky old so and so. The stock pens were right next to the feed store where we spent a fair amount of time hanging out talking to Brooks Fleming, the owner. He was full of useful information about farming, weather, putting food by, training border collies and such. Brooks was up in his eighties then and didn’t seem to mind sharing his experience with us newbie’s at all. Eck worked there part time unloading train cars of feed when they came in and we bought all our feed from him.

We tried not to wander on down to the stock pens too much because we always felt sorry for the horses down there. Some of them had welts from being whipped and most of them were underfed and skittish. They got them cheap at farm and stock auctions and sold them for whatever profit they could get. We had already bought Barney, the donkey, and Daniel, the pinto pony from them the year before. Let’s just say they were much better off with us. Barney and Daniel weren’t all that useful but they weren’t much trouble either. We had plenty of grass and it didn’t take much of a fence to keep them in.

I rode Daniel bareback all through the woods and over the hill to visit

Daniel in his work harness
Daniel in his work harness

friends even though I don’t think he was ever really trained for riding. He had a harness, and was supposed to be a work pony, but he wasn’t all that big so he couldn’t haul a lot of weight. He was very good at hauling one log at a time down from the top of the hill though. We would walk him up, back him up to the log, hook the chain to the single tree, and I would walk him down for the first trip. Once we got down to the bottom and unhooked him, all I had to do was get him headed in the right direction, smack his rump and tell him to go on back up for another, and he’d go plodding off up the hill. Then he’d get another log hooked on and come on back on his own. It didn’t take long to wear him out though. It was a pretty steep hill and the logs were heavy. Then he’d just quit.

So we decided to buy a work mule when we saw Kate down at the stock pens. She was a whole lot bigger than Daniel and had a history of pulling logs. So he said, anyway. She was a good tempered mare mule, about 15 hands tall and 1200 pounds, and got along with Barney and Daniel just fine. Her harness was beautiful, with brass knobs, red and white trimmings, in decent shape. Eck could ride her without worrying about her running off with him, and she was more comfortable bareback than Barney, who was kind of small anyway.

During the next few months Kate worked out pretty well, hauling

Kate
Kate

logs for us and letting us ride her. One day, we rode her and Daniel up to our new house site and tethered them loosely to some trees nearby while we were working. The dogs, Geshen and Possum, came up with us, always staying about forty feet ahead, and looking back to see we were still coming along. They got bored when we stopped, so they kept on up the hill and ran into some deer, which they commenced to chase back down the hill, right into the horses. Kate and Daniel startled and yanked back on their ties, which gave way, and they headed off downhill, cross country.  Daniel knew where he was going and he moved a lot faster than Kate and was soon out of sight. Kate was trying to follow him but didn’t keep up too well. We tried to head them off but Daniel was gone and headed home. We saw him at a distance, cross the creek at the neighbor’s car crossing, and head down the county road to the barn. Then we saw Kate. She didn’t see where Daniel crossed and she tried to take a shortcut. It was a really bad choice. Over on Tessie’s place the oil well sits right at a bend in the creek, with a low marshy area on the far side and a steep clay bank about four foot high on the other. She hesitated, we were shouting at her to WHOA, but she jumped anyway. Her front legs made it but her back legs got stuck in the mud and, in slow motion, she fell over backward in the creek. We finally got caught up to her and she was thrashing around trying to get herself upright. Panic was in her eyes, with the whites showing all around, breathing hard. We tried to calm her down, talking and patting her down. She finally got her legs under her but they all four sunk in deep mud. There seemed to be no bottom to it. It was like quicksand. Every time she moved she got deeper. Then it started to rain. Hard.

Bunnels Run is a creek famous for flooding very fast, and it had been raining a lot lately. The red clay ground was totally saturated. Any more rain was going to just run right off into the creek. There was seven miles of creek above us and it came through town first. That means a lot of rooftop and parking lot runoff water headed our way. We got down in the creek and were pulling and pushing and digging trying to get Kate loose. She would thrash around, panic, go still, thrash some more. She just kept getting deeper in. Eck finally ran off to call for help, get a rope and bring the tractor to pull with. He managed to get a few neighbors to help, too. We scrambled back down in the mud to get the rope around her middle and tied off to the tractor and started pulling with that. Kate freaked out when the rope started to pull and rub on her and we tried padding it with shirts. Somebody was beating on her but to get her moving, while we were cajoling her with pleas to try, but she finally just rolled her eyes up in her head and gave up entirely. The rain was coming down hard all this time and creek was starting to rise. Her head was stretched far out on the mud, not moving. We got shovels and started digging frantically; trying to make a hole in the mud and get the suction broke, pulling with the tractor, digging some more, pushing from behind, lifting her legs. Nothing was working. Another neighbor showed up with a second tractor, got it rigged up and both were pulling at once, slipping in the mud. The rain continued to pour down. Finally she started to break loose from the mud with a sucking noise and we all jumped in and worked together to bring her out. We got her pulled a little ways to a solid spot but Kate was not able to stand. We started rubbing her legs down, feeling for broken bones, and realizing she had lost her circulation in them, massaged the blood flow back into them. She started to try and stand up and with all of us helping she finally was standing again. Her head was hanging down low, though, and she seemed to have lost her will to fight. We got her moving, walking real slow, and looking back, could see the water was already up about a foot and rising fast. She would have drowned in another few minutes. It took us almost half an hour to get her back to the barn and rubbed down. We tried to feed her and gave her water but she didn’t want it. The goats and Daniel and Barney all stood close by looking worried and did not leave her side for days.

Poor old Kate never did fully recover from that ordeal. She wouldn’t eat, didn’t pay anyone any attention, and just started to waste away. I think she aged 15 years in one day and she lost the will to live. Her hooves developed a soft depression ring and started to peel. It hurt her to even stand.  We didn’t know what to do to help her. We found a guy who thought he could nurse her back to health and we gave her to him about a month later. When he loaded her up in the truck, she swung her head down low, back and forth, like a vision of Dumbo the Elephant going to slaughter. It made us cry. We felt terrible. She bellowed as he pulled away and we went inside and sobbed. We heard she died not long after.

 

Wendy lee , writing at edgewisewoods.com

Bunnels Run, Oil and Gas Wells

Bunnels Run, Oil and Gas-1975

 

McDougal House and Gas Well
McDougal House and Gas Well

The leaves have all fallen so it is possible to see a ways into the woods now, and it’s not rifle season for deer yet, so I take a walk up the hill across the road from us. The two guys that pump the wells up and down the road on Saturdays have just finished shutting them all down so it is finally quiet. It is a beautiful fall day to take my sketchpad and park myself up from the well to draw it. Photographs cannot capture the details and feel of the place. You can barely see it from anywhere because everything metal is so rusty and all the wood is weathered grey and blends in with the tree bark.

When we first moved onto Bunnels Run, all we could smell was oil and gas, everywhere, all the time. It permeated the air, the soil, even the water. Now, after six months, we have gotten used to it and hardly notice the smell anymore. We are still breathing it though and I wonder if maybe it isn’t what’s making us so lazy and wanting to sit rocking all the time. It’s kind of hard to get anything done when you are rocking, kicking back on the porch, just watching things go by. We did get our garden planted and we weed it every morning while waiting for the mailman to come. Mail is darn right exciting when you don’t have a phone. Gives you something to look forward to. We get the  Mother Earth News, Organic Gardening, the Market bulletin and the local paper out of Harrisville so we have something to read. Plus seed catalogs, lots of seed catalogs, like Burpees, R.H. Shumways, lots of others. The Sears catalog is even entertaining and the non glossy pages will do in a pinch if you run out of toilet paper in the outhouse. You have to crumple them up and rub them between your hands first though, to make them more absorbent.

Although we have eighty acres, only five of it is flat bottomland, and it is situated right along the graveled county road. Everything we do down in the bottom is visible to folks going by on the road until the weeds get tall enough to screen us in late summer. We let the Joe Pye (Eupatorium purpureum) and Iron Weed (Vernonia) and Helianthus grow up along the creek so we have privacy down in the creek where we take out baths. The weeds grow way over our heads and the creek has five foot banks so we are well hidden down there. We use Dr Bronners Peppermint soap and rinse off using a bucket up on land in an attempt not to pollute the water too much. Someday maybe we’ll have a bathtub inside. It’s getting a little cold to be taking creek baths these days so we have started to heat water up in a bucket instead.  We pour cupfuls over us standing behind the shack on a rock and at the end dump the last over our heads. That last bit is the best part of a bucket bath.

It is kind of weird to be so far out from everything while at the same time being right on the road. When we get our house on the hill done it will be way different. It’s a long hard climb up there and I don’t expect we’ll get hardly any visitors. We had a new road cut by a guy using a D-5 Cat, but you first have to get across the creek, through a swampy bit on the far bottom, and then  about a half mile up a  really steep, turning road that gets real slick when it rains. We aren’t figuring on coming down much once we finally get up there. At the rate we’re going it will be awhile yet.

For now, we are busy hauling logs down one at a time with our pony, getting the square sills made at the sawmill, stockpiling rough cut lumber, and collecting windows and doors, an old iron bathtub and such.

New House Sills
New House Sills

And then we’ll be rocking awhile on the porch. And once in a while making the long, fifty mile trek to Marietta, Ohio to get better beer. The beer they sell in West Virginia is “near beer”, only three point two percent alcohol and tastes like water. Stroh’s -fire brewed, is the best we’ve got here and it is barely drinkable. Then there’s the visiting we have to do, while we are out that way, which takes the whole rest of the day, and then we get home late for milking and the goats are upset. And then it gets dark so early and all we have is kerosene light so we usually go to bed about two hours after dark. In the morning there is chores, milking, feeding and watering the goats and chickens, heating up water to wash the milk buckets, jars and breakfast dishes. Everything takes so much time, especially laundry. Haul water from the creek, heat it  up on the stove, haul it out to the washtubs, scrub the dirt out on the washboard, squeeze out the soap, rinse them in the other tub, wring out the water, shake the wrinkles out, hang and pin it all on the line, bring it back in before it rains. I don’t really get much time to sketch, or rock, or read, for that matter.

So, now I am sitting here looking down at the oil well. It surely smells stronger up here right by the well head. There is the thirty foot tall metal pole with all the guy wires holding it steady. I think it was originally used when they drilled the hole and now probably only needed if they have to pull something out for repairs. The most interesting part is the twelve foot wooden walking wheel, with the foot wide canvas belt going around it, connecting it to the pumping jack on one end, and the one cylinder natural gas engine on the other.

McGinnis Oil and Gas well
McGinnis Oil and Gas well

There is a thirty or forty foot long, dilapidated wooden shed with a tin roof over everything but the jack and a huge metal tank that the oil and water get pumped into. When they pump they don’t get oil at first. They pull up nothing but hot salty water for hours before oil starts coming up with it. It all gets stored together in the big tank and after awhile the oil rises up and the water settles down and then gets drained off. Eventually the tank will get full enough with oil for them to drain it into a truck down on the road. The wells around here don’t produce very much oil.  Nobody is getting much in the way of royalties, but the free gas is appreciated by everybody. We don’t own the Mineral Rights to our land, they were kept by some previous landowner, but we get free gas just the same. If there is a well on your land or within a hundred feet of your property line you get free gas and there are wells everywhere. When they are pumping, as they do every Saturday, you can hear all the old wooden wheels creaking and groaning with a long, slow rhythm and then you hear the huge one cylinder natural gas engines popping, loudly and slightly off beat, missing occasionally. There aren’t too many guys left who know how to maintain these dinosaurs and they are slowly being replaced with boring Briggs and Stratton gasoline engines. I like these old ones that put out a staccato beat resonating all down the holler that you can actually dance to. When there are five or more going at once it is awesome. Not quiet, like now.

My new little tri- color collie pup is sitting with me as I sketch. He is so

Ranza Puppy with a Pint Jar
Ranza Puppy with a Pint Jar

little that when he stands by the chickens they look bigger than he does. Even a pint jar looks big next to him. We named him Ranza from a name we saw on a mailbox and he is a good boy. He has been teaching himself to herd the goats and chickens and is doing pretty well at it. Climbing up here to the well has tuckered him all out and he is asleep next to me in the leaves. I put away my sketchbook and lean back looking up through the branches. Life is good.

©Wendy lee Maddox, Edgewisewoods.com, March 31st, 2014