Frozen Basil Cookies

Growing Basil

Basil is a frost tender annual herb which is easy to grow from seed. It can be  sowed directly into the garden after the ground warms up and there is no chance of frost. The seedlings will emerge in about a week and if grown in a solid row, will need to be thinned to about six to eighteen inches apart. You can replant the thinnings wherever you have space in the garden. I find that six to ten well spaced  plants  supply us with plenty of leaves to eat fresh, dry and freeze for the year.

I use some form of Basil in a lot of what I cook and I put it up in different ways, according to how it will be used. Fresh, it is really good with sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese and is great mixed with spinach as greens on sandwiches or salads.

Dried Basil

Once your Basil plants are about eighteen inches tall, you can start cutting them. Take a heavy pair of kitchen scissors and a basket out to the garden and cut each branch of Basil back to a nice pair of leaves so it can keep on growing. It is better to cut about six inches each week or two than it is to cut it back too far all at once. Fill the basket, and using cotton twine, gather about five cuttings in a bunch and tie them along the length of string. Tie a loop in one end that will fit over your peg or drying arms and let them hang until dry and starting to crumble. 20160926_105218

Do not hang them in the sun, but indoors in the shade. If the weather is too damp for it to dry properly, you can lay it on a cookie sheet in a warm 200 degree F oven with the door open a crack to crisp it up.

Once it is dry, strip the leaves off the stems over a cookie sheet and then rub through a big sieve. Fill small half pint jars and save some of them for presents to give to family and friends.

I use dried basil in omelets and scrambled eggs and add it to sauces and soups.

Frozen Pesto Cookies

For a fresher flavor, especially in Lasagna or sauces, I really like to use frozen Basil cookies.

These savory cookies are made by picking the leaves into the food processor, adding a little olive oil and periodically giving it a whir. Add more leaves, whir again. Keep adding leaves until you run out or it gets too full. The oil helps it to mix and holds it together so you can spoon cookie sized rounds out onto cookie sheets. Place the sheet in the freezer overnight and in the morning, remove them with a spatula and load into quart sized freezer bags.

Processing Basil Cookies
Processing Basil Cookies

Drop a couple of these cookies into a pot of simmering tomato sauce, steam with spinach and stuff into a pork roast,  or add to the cheese filling of spinach lasagna, drop into stews. Add pine nuts and cheese fora fresh tasting winter Pesto over rice or spaghetti squash. It is very easy to use a cookie or two at a time.

-Wendy lee, writing at Edgewisewoods, Gardens and Critters

 

Bees, Queens, Mites and Beetles -September 2016

My bees are having a hard time these days. There are Small Hive Beetles (SHB) attacking their space.  I installed screened bottom boards onto the bottoms of the hives because they have a slide out tray the larvae drop onto from above. Weekly I collect the cappings and pollen they have destroyed which has fallen into the tray, along with the numerous white, wiggling beetle larvae. It is disgusting and I kill them by scraping  it all into plastic shopping bags and freezing them for a few days. Some I have then sieved out, so only the pollen remains. The rest I feed to the chickens. This does not bode well for my bees.

Pollen and Small Hive Beetle Larva
Pollen and Small Hive Beetle Larva

Beetles

I have twice now, on September 8th and 25th, drenched the ground around the hives with Permithrin insecticide to kill any pupating SHB larvae in the soil. This is supposed to do the trick but I have not seen positive results yet. I still have a lot of larvae showing up on the slide out trap drawers. Supposedly, I should see a drop in populations at three weeks, which is later this week. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

Top Feeders and Supers
Top Feeders and Supers

I installed honey supers on  the first five hives on July 20th but after a month, only the number two hive had drawn out any comb, so  I removed the supers and the syrup feeders from the  other four hives on August 22nd. I had been feeding them 1:1 syrup all this time so they would have the energy to excrete wax and draw new comb out on the foundations. The bees seemed really strong there for awhile and I was hoping I might even get some honey. But no. Plan B was that they would at least get the supers prepped with drawn comb so next year they would not have to work so hard.

Mites

To combat the Varroa Mites, which all beekeepers must assume we have these days, and which is most likely what killed my bees the last two winters, I have hung two Apivar miticide impregnated strips in each deep hive body (except #2 which had the super left on longer). I am seriously hoping that this will kill all the mites and enable me to overwinter my bees this year. The last two years I had only treated with HopGuard, which is considered organic, but it did not work well enough to kill all the mites, so I am using the harder stuff this year. This is what Ed Forney of Geezer Ridge uses and recommends, and since he manages to keep all his bees alive, I am following his advice  this year.

Feeding

I am still feeding pollen patties to all 6 hives, about every week to ten days, to help the bees feed their brood. The Goldenrod  and Autumn Asters are blooming now but, according to Charles, a beekeeper who moves his bees up and down the East coast following crops, the bees around here don’t utilize these plants here so much. He tells me it is an elevational thing and that up in Pennsylvania, at higher latitudes, the bees are all over the Goldenrod. I don’t see very many on the plants here in my yard, but the wasps seem to like it.

Queens

September 18th, while going through the hives and laying the pollen patties between the two hive bodies, I discovered that hive # 3 had no brood and no larvae on their frames. So, no queen. I have no idea what happened to their queen but now I need a new one. A fellow beekeeper showed me a photo of the frames in her Russian queened hive that were absolutely brimming with brood, so I bought my new queen from the same place she had. Charles lives fairly close by and raises queens himself, which means they have not been stressed by shipping at least. I borrowed a frame of capped brood from hive #1 and installed the new Russian queen (another $36)  in hive #3 on September 20th. This is the fourth queen I have had to buy this year, even though all of my hives are new this year. I had one package arrive with a dead queen, and the others have disappeared for unknown reasons.

Queen Cage
Queen Cage

Today, I will order  some more Apivar from Mann Lake, which will cost me $10.40 each double deep hive, since I am ordering a 50 strip package this time. It was about a dollar a strip more when I was buying it in 10 strip packages. Then I can remove the super and treat hive #2 for mites. I will have to treat all six hives again next spring and fall, so I can definitely use the larger amount.

Meanwhile, I attend every workshop and monthly class I am able to and I am also planning on working with another beekeeper close to me  so I can learn as much as possible about keeping bees. So far it is an uphill battle and I admire anyone who does it for fun. I am finding it a little stressful myself, as well as expensive.

-Wendy lee Maddox, writing at Edgewisewoods, Gardens and Critters